The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with round mauve grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city town centre.

"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of growers who make wine from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Grape gardens help cities remain greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing permanent, yielding agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Activities Across Bristol

Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 plants. "I adore the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on

Ashley Wood
Ashley Wood

Elara is a lifestyle writer passionate about sustainable living and mindfulness, sharing insights to inspire positive daily changes.

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